The Ultimate Guide To Hiking The Warrumbungles

Located deep into the rural lands of New South Wales, the Warrumbungle Ranges hold remnants of a heavily eroded shield volcano, active over 13 million years ago. The contrast from farmlands to ancient forests strikes immediately as you enter the gates of the national park.

The Warrumbungles is where east meets west. Walking trails dance between the arid plains of the west and the vibrant moisture-loving forests of the east. The two vastly different habitats work wonders together, providing a haven for a range of endemic and endangered flora and fauna species.

One could spend days exploring the Warrumbungle Ranges, wandering through the diverse hiking trails or snoozing by the river at one of the many picturesque campsites. Or for those that are way cooler than us, the sheer cliff faces form the perfect platform for trad rock climbing.

But that’s not all. The reason the Warrumbungles soared to a whole other level – and slid into first place on our Aussie national park list – is the added bonus of it being a Dark Sky Park. 

Warrumbungle National Park is home to the first ever Dark Sky Park in Australia. Uninterrupted skies put on a show like we’ve never seen before. The actual meaning of stardust is discovered as you gaze up at the vast, shimmering milky way above.

But more on that later, let’s begin with the Warrumbungles hikes…

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The Best Hikes In The Warrumbungles

Within the Warrumbungles, the hikes range from a stroll in the park to an all hands on deck – how the hell is this getting steeper – scramble and can take anywhere from an hour to a whole day, or more!

We had a successful four-day visit to this stunning national park, managing to accomplish all bar one of the main hikes. Each was strikingly different from the next as if you’ve entered a new world with each terrain shift. 

Belougery Split Rock Circuit

Distance: 5 km Loop
Time: 2 – 3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 388 m
Highest Elevation: 905 m
Trailhead: Split Rock Car Park

The phenomenal Belougery Split Rock will come into view as soon as you enter the park. Immediately, you’ll realise two things. First being the reason it’s called Split Rock and secondly, this peak absolutely needs to be bagged.

Beginning with a persistent incline from the Split Rock car park, sporadic make-shift stairs wind their way through scraggly trees with burnt trunks to the base of Belougery Split Rock. 

Bush fires raged through the Warrumbungles in 2013 and signs of destruction are still present. Damaged trees stand strong, their trunks and the ground covered in beautiful green creeping plants, thriving in the regeneration. 

The base of the Belougery Split Rock – an impressive ancient lava dome – is where the simple yet steep hike takes it up a notch. Reflectors guide the way while you scramble up and traverse along steep rock sections leading you to the peak.

A gate of warning appears just before the summit is reached. If you’re nimble on your feet and don’t mind a bit of exposed rock scrambling, make sure to enter through the gate and take on the whole hike. 

360-degree views of the entire valley are laid out below as you set foot on the peak. The sun setting over the western ranges is a delight you need to experience, but don’t make the same mistake we did. Bring a torch for the treacherous descent and save those poor ankles from the loose and elusive rocks.

The Belougery Split Rock hike is a loop, taking you right around the mountain. We finished this hike in 2.5hrs with slightly slippery rocks. Allow 3 hrs just in case the stunning views at the peak hold you captive for a little longer. 

Mt Exmouth Summit Hike Via Cathedral Arch

Distance: 18 km return
Time: 6 – 8 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 850m
Highest Elevation: 1,206 m
Trailhead: Pincham Car Park

Sparse bushlands with hints of the western starkness begin the hike to Mt Exmouth’s summit – the highest peak in the Warrumbungles National Park. The well-marked trail leapfrogs West Spirey Creek on its climb to Ogma Gap.

You’re welcomed with a terrain shift to dense green forests the minute you reach the western high tops at Ogma Gap. The trail steeply dips in and out of gullies, full of damp pebbles trickling like mini waterfalls, before spitting you out onto slabs of exposed rock.

Before continuing straight ahead to Mt Exmouth’s peak, take the detour to the Cathedral Arch. Descending south, a craggy trail brings you to a natural bridge of rock connecting two outcrops. But the arch isn’t the only spectacle, one lonely old tree sits smack bang in the middle. What a bewildering sight. How on earth does a tree survive in such barren circumstances? Of course, a closer inspection was necessary…

Backtracking to the main trail towards Mt Exmouth, the real ascent begins. And doesn’t end for 2.5km. The gruelling uphill is made bearable by the scenery. Grass trees and moss cover the entire upper section of the Mt Exmouth trail, creating an enchanted wonderland.

A final push is rewarded with the stunning view from atop Mt Exmouth, stretching for kilometres over the distant plains and closer rock formations. Or so we’ve been told. We weren’t so lucky to be gifted with a clear day… 

But even if cloud and mist obscure the view, hiking in moody weather makes for a whole new experience and one that is highly recommended.

Mt Exmouth is best conquered as part of a multi-day hike due to the length, though it is possible to do the whole return hike in a day. We began at Pincham car park, made camp at Ogma Gap and completed Mt Exmouth and the Cathedral Arch before returning to camp within 6 hours. 

Breadknife And Grand High Tops Walk

Distance: 14.5 km loop
Time: 5 – 6 hours
Difficulty: Easy – Moderate
Elevation gain: 636 m
Highest Elevation: 960 m
Trailhead: Pincham Car Park

The Breadknife and Grand High Tops walk is by far the most popular of the Warrumbungles hikes. And for good reason, the Breadknife – a volcanic dyke just 4m wide and 90m tall – is a geographical phenomenon. 

Little to no concentration is needed as you follow the smooth, double-wide path along Spirey Creek to Balor Hut. Allowing you the luxury of soaking in all the wonders of the Warrumbungles. The tall eucalypts and wildflowers paint a beautiful picture, distracting you from the increasingly steep gradient. 

And then the stairs begin. I began counting them before getting distracted not even halfway up, so let’s just say there are tons of them. Benches provide a welcomed respite as you grind your way to the base of the Breadknife.

This is where the real fun begins. Boulders and rocks create a much more exciting make-shift set of stairs that hug the side of the towering Breadknife. Once a saddle is reached, the path veering right leads to a dip in the Breadknife. If you’re daring enough, walk out onto the thin line of rock. Looking at the earth dramatically drop away is enough to take anyone’s breath away. 

Continue left to slide behind another tremendous rock formation – which you can also walk out onto – and make the scramble to the flat expanse of the Grand High Tops. From this vantage point, Belougery Spire and the Breadknife sit majestically before you.

In order to avoid boredom by returning the way you came, continue west to Ogma Gap and down the West Spirey Creek track. The Western High Tops and the second half of the loop provide exciting and rugged terrain, with spectacular views of Bluff Mountain. 

Most do the Breadknife and Grand High Tops walk in a day, either via the loop or a return hike from Balor Hut. The loop is 14.5km and the return is 12.5km. However, if you’re equipped for an overnight hike, sunrise is magnificent as the sun hits the Breadknife.

Bluff Mountain Summit Walk

Distance: 17 km loop
Time: 6 – 8 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 895 m
Highest Elevation: 1,190 m
Trailhead: Pincham Car Park

Standing 1,190m above sea level, Bluff Mountain is the second-highest peak in the Warrumbungle Ranges. The track to the peak of Bluff Mountain is found at Dows Camp, approximately 1.5 kilometres south-west of Balor Hut.

After the simple path from Pincham car park to Balor Hut, you’ll welcome the slightly rugged trail meandering along the ridgeline.

Once you reach the turn off for Bluff Mountain, the easy stroll ceases. A steep, rutted and rocky trail shoots west before swinging north, zigzagging through boulders and grass trees. No trail markers make this climb a challenging one, a fact we weren’t aware of as we set off in the wee hours of the morning. 

But once those eyes feast on the insanely beautiful and unique landscape rolled out before you, the struggle is forgotten. From atop Bluff Mountain, you receive exclusive views of Bluff Pyramid and the wide western plains.

Bluff Mountain was our favourite of the Warrumbungles walks and can be added onto the Breadknife and Grand High Tops loop, with a 3.6km detour. However, the sunrise we experienced was out of this world and if you’re equipped with a head torch and sleeping gear, we couldn’t recommend a sunset or sunrise mission enough.

Goulds Circuit 

Distance: 8 km loop
Time: 2 – 3 hours
Difficulty: Easy – Moderate
Elevation gain: 287 m
Highest Elevation: 768 m
Trailhead: Pincham Car Park

For those short on time, the Goulds Circuit is the perfect alternative to the Breadknife and Grand High Tops walk. Or, if you’re like us and need to investigate every trail available, it’s a great option to leave the monotonous paved path on your way back to the Pincham car park.

The loop takes on two summits, Macha Tor and Febar Tor. The beginning of the walk is steep and exposed to the beating sun but as you reach Macha Tor, the view of the Breadknife and Grand High Tops is breathtaking. Bluff Mountain sits behind them and even Mt Exmouth is visible in the distance… though sadly, it couldn’t fit on our photo! 

Descending from Febar Tor, the trail matches the Spirey Creek’s path with beautiful meadow-like grass and wildflowers surrounding.

While the hike is easy and nothing to write home about – especially if you’ve already conquered the rest of the park – the ability to sit and look out at all you’ve wandered is pretty damn special.

This circuit requires only 2 to 3 hours and is one of the easiest in the park. The perfect picnic spot can be found on the exit from Febar Tor, beside Spirey Creek. 

Tara Cave Track

Distance: 4 km return
Time: 1 – 1.5 hours
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 101 m
Highest Elevation: 887 m
Trailhead: Old Woolshed Picnic Area

A rich aboriginal history is found within Tara Cave. A short but deep cave, protected by a fence, houses carvings from tool sharpening and other impressive artefacts. An information board explaining the culture of the Gamilaraay people and what they used as their tools is found at the front of the cave. 

Wide paths, paved most of the way, lead you to the caves two kilometres from the Woolshed car park. The walk itself is very simple, with only one obstacle being the creek crossing at the beginning. Usually, this is nothing more than a rock hop across. Though at times after heavy rain, the creek can become a gushing river.

And just as our luck goes, this was the case on our visit. With a bit of knowledge on creek crossings and the help of a stick, we made it across easily enough… even though Dylan was shitting himself the entire crossing. His excuse being the camera gear in his bag….

Our Suggested Warrumbungles Multi-Day Hiking Itinerary

The Warrumbungle National Park should not be done in a day. There is just too much diversity in the trails and too much beauty to experience. Luckily the Warrumbungles camping arrangement has been well thought out. Remote sites are found throughout the entirety of the ranges, turning this national park into an explorers dream.

And what’s better is that the location of these remote campsites give hikers the ability of planning a one way circuit with no need to back track at all.

There’s no shortage of lush real estate to pitch a tent and even a drop toilet in the middle of the hiking trails. What a luxury! 

So no excuses… 

We had no idea which campsites would be best to see the whole of the park, or which order to tackle everything. So to save you the same anguish, I’ve put together the best itinerary to incorporate the main walking trails including which campsites to reside in to get to each iconic attraction at the right time of day. 

Below is an itinerary for three days and one for four. The three-day option is a little more hectic and one for the real troopers out there. 

Three Day Itinerary For The Warrumbungle National Park

Day 1: Split Rock car park – Split Rock – Danu Gap Campsite | 14km

Explore the Belougery Split Rock hike, cutting it slightly short and taking the Burbie Fire Trail to Danu Gap, camping the night in the saddle. 

Day 2: Danu Gap Campsite – Mt Exmouth – Cathedral Arch – Bluff Mountain – Dows Camp | 12km

Leave your tent and pack at Danu Gap while you tackle Mt Exmouth. If you’re feeling really game and know your navigation, try making it to the peak of Mt Exmouth for sunrise. Return to pack your things and move off to Balor Hut, making sure to include the detour to the Cathedral Arch. 

Set up camp and wait for sunset to ascend on Bluff Mountain, remembering your jacket and head torch. Again, make sure you know your navigation and feel comfortable retracing your steps in the dark without markers.

*This is doable in a day, especially as you won’t need to carry your pack up either Mt Exmouth or Bluff Mountain. However, if you would rather take it easy and relax a little, Bluff Mountain can be done the next day for sunrise.

Day 3: Dows Camp – The Breadknife and Grand High Tops – Goulds Circuit – Pincham Car Park | 10.7km

Pack up for the last time and embark on the loop of The Breadknife and Grand High Tops, ideally for sunrise or as early as you can to avoid the crowds. 

On the way back to the Pincham car park, take the detour to include Goulds Circuit, a welcomed respite to the steep paved path.

So that’s the 3-day adventure. Time to strap yourself in for an expedition, even if some aren’t up for the challenge…

Four Day Itinerary For The Warrumbungles

Day 1: Tara Cave Return Hike – Belougery Split Rock Circuit – Camp Blackman | 9km

Start small with Tara Cave’s 4km return hike before driving to the beginning of the Belougery Split Rock trail to complete the 5km circuit. We highly recommend waiting until the afternoon to climb Split Rock in order to get an epic sunset. 

Just don’t forget your torch!

Camp in comfort at Camp Blackman with your car, showers and toilets! This was our favourite place to stargaze, and if you’ve got a clear night, a trip to the observatory would not leave you disappointed. 

Day 2: Pincham Car Park – Cathedral Arch – Mt Exmouth – Danu Gap Campsite | 11.5km 

Time to get pumped, this will be the beginning of the multi-day hike. Start at Pincham car park and follow the West Spirey Creek trail to Ogma Gap. Make the detour to the Cathedral Arch before setting up camp at Danu Gap. 

Wait for the afternoon to embark on Mt Exmouth, enjoying another epic sunset and an entertaining walk back to your campsite.

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Day 3: Danu Gap Campsite – Balor Hut – Bluff Mountain – Balor Hut | 11.4km

Wake up nice and early to enjoy the sunrise from your tent before trekking on to Balor hut. Set up your new home for the night and enjoy the luxury of a toilet. 

Retrace your steps to Dows Camp and climb Bluff Mountain for your third and possibly best sunset. Careful on the way down from this one, the lack of signage could trip you up. Make sure you are comfortable with your way before attempting this in the dark.

Day 4: Balor Hut – Breadknife and Grand High Tops Loop – Goulds Circuit – Pincham Car Park | 8.6km

Rise early to find the best spot to watch the sunrise behind the Breadknife. This will most likely be from Balor Peak. Suss it out the night before if you get a chance.

Then, pack up camp and set off on the short Grand High Tops Circuit. But make sure you don’t forget to climb the Breadknife. 

Take the welcomed respite from the monotonous paved path by following the Goulds Circuit on your way back to your car at Pincham car park.

Camping In The Warrumbungles

Well, it turns out that the Warrumbungles National Park is the new Blue Mountains. Or so it seemed the weekend we visited. It may have been due to COVID-19 not allowing as many visitors, or school holidays. Whatever it was, we couldn’t get a camping site for the first night!

We thought we had actually done a good job at being prepared for this one. We had looked into the hikes, checked the weather, decided which campsites we thought would be best and then bam!

Apparently, you should pre-book the campsites as well. Who would have thought!? 

Anyhow, there are 10 campsites within the Warrumbungle National Park, three being campsites with facilities and the option of camping next to or in your car. The remaining seven are remote walk-in only. 

Keep in mind a national parks pass is required to enter this famous dark sky park.

Camp Blackman | Car Accessible

Camp Blackman is the biggest of the four vehicle accessible Warrumbungles camping sites, with two unpowered sections and two powered sections. It’s hands down the best also, with a creek running through the centre and lush grassy sites for most areas. You may not want to leave. The wide-open space of the campground makes for the perfect stargazing destination.

Amenities: Showers, Toilets, Barbecues, Public Phone Powered sites.

Cost: $16.40 for 2, unpowered. $24.60 for 2, powered.

Camp Wambelong | Car Accessible

Camp Wambelong is much smaller than Camp Blackman with just 35 sites. It may not be a luxurious or pretty though it is situated almost at the trailhead for the Belougery Split Rock, meaning you won’t need to move your car. This could be a winning factor.

Amenities: Toilets, Barbecue Facilities.

Cost: $16.40 for 2 unpowered.

Camp Walaay | Car Accessible

Camp Walaay is only available for large groups from 20 to 180 and is needed to be booked in advance. It comes at an almighty price, so make sure to take as many people as possible to diversify the cost.

Amenities: Toilets, Showers, Barbecue Facilities, Drinking Water.

Cost: Ranges depending on the size of the group, click here for prices.

Camp Pincham | Walk-in

Camp Pincham is the closest walk-in campsite to the car park, only taking five minutes from Pincham car park. The campsite is set on the banks of the beautiful Spirey Creek and perfect for those not too keen on going completely remote.

Amenities: Drop Toilet, Drinking Water.

Cost: $16.40 for two.

Balor Hut Campground | Remote Walk-in

Balor Hut is the only remote walk-in campsite with a toilet and shelter. The shelter is a walker’s hut that can be purchased for accommodation. Expect to pay a little more for something that fancy when you’re hiking! 

Camping in tents is an option here as well, with a nice grassy patch next to the hut. This campsite is best for seeing the sunrise and visiting the Breadknife and Grand High Tops without having to walk far.

And as a result of all these perks, Balor Hut is far more popular than other campgrounds in the Warrumbungle Ranges. 

Amenities: Walker Hut, Drop Toilet.

Cost: $24.60 minimum price, includes 4 people. Bookings are essential!

Burbie Camp | Remote Walk-in

Also known as Burbie Springs, this campsite is located furthest away from the main attractions, in between Belougery Split Rock and Mt Exmouth. This would be a great plan B if it got too late to get all the way to Danu Camp.

Amenities: None.

Cost: $6 booking fee.

Ogma Gap Campground | Remote Walk-in

Ogma Gap will be the first campsite you arrive at if you begin your hike along the West Spirey trail. A couple of flat spots to choose from and a fire ring with great log seats surrounding it makes Ogma Gap quite a cosy campsite. 

However, being situated in a saddle, you’re exposed to the elements. We camped here our first night and while it was cosy, the wind roared through and caused our tent to shudder all night long. 

Our advice would be to check the weather first before making your decision on which campsites to choose.

Amenities: None.

Cost: $6 booking fee.

Danu Camp | Remote Walk-in

Danu Camp is set in another saddle further west and closest to Mt Exmouth. Danu Gap provides better views of the folding mountain range to the south and would be our recommendation between Ogma and Danu Gap… If the weather was behaving that is.

Amenities: None.

Cost: $6 booking fee.

Dows Camp | Remote Walk-in

Dows Camp is the best for windy conditions, being tucked into the side of the mountain with a creek marking the perimeter. This campsite is the larger of the walk-in options and with a water source nearby, it’s perfect for spending a few nights. 

The Bluff Mountain trail begins from this campsite, making it the best option if you’re choosing to brave a sunrise or sunset climb.

Amenities: None.

Cost: $6 booking fee.

Hurleys Camp | Remote Walk-in

Hurleys Camp is located at a lower elevation than the other walk-in camping options, in an open field next to Spirey Creek. While it may not be as picturesque, it would be warmer and hidden from most of the elements. 

Hurleys Camp is a good option if the weather is not cooperating.

Amenities: None.

Cost: $6 booking fee.

Rock Climbing In The Warrumbungles

While hiking throughout one of the vast Warrumbungles Walks is an outstanding way to explore this epic national park. There has to be something more for those thrill seekers.

And there is…

Rock Climbing within the Warrumbungle Ranges is hugely popular with the adventurous. While only offering trad climbing, meaning experience is highly needed, there is a large mix of grades. So any level of ability, with experience in trad climbing, can find a suitable line. 

For more information on the individual climbs and grades, check out The Crag.

Thanks to my crazy friend Michael Garland for the lend of his epic photo climbing Bluff Mountain. We aren’t as cool as him… yet!

Be sure to check out his sometimes scary but always hilarious adventures on Instagram and Facebook!

The Dark Sky Park

Low humidity, clear night skies and a high altitude is the perfect recipe for the ultimate stargazing opportunities. And the Warrumbungles ticks all these boxes, including a world-class astronomy research facility in the Siding Spring Observatory. Here they offer tours where you can learn all about the observatory and astronomy. 

If you can, try to visit the Warrumbungles on a new moon so the sky is as inky as possible. This enables a stunning view of the milky way and billions of glittering stars. Anywhere within the Warrumbungle National Park is perfect for stargazing, as long as there is an opening in the tree canopy. 

Our favourite place was atop Bluff Mountain, although an early morning hike isn’t for everyone so our second favourite is Camp Blackman. Camp Blackman is the largest of the Warrumbungles camping sites and the view is uninterrupted for kilometres. 

Other Essential Information For Hiking The Warrumbungles

Suggested Gear For a Multi-Day Expedition Through The Warrumbungles

Even in summer, the nights can get mighty cold and windy while camping in the Warrumbungles. For this reason, make sure to bring warm clothes and sleeping bags and mats if you’re planning a multi-day hike. For the day hikes, we still wouldn’t go venturing into the forests without some essential items.

This is the list of gear we took with us and highly recommend:

• Compass and some sort of map – The Warrumbungles doesn’t have a topographic map but your phone and the small map from the visitors centre is sufficient enough for the area. Our favourite app to use is Gaia GPS. It has a huge range of walking trails added to its offline settings if you upload beforehand and tracks your location. It even tells you which direction you’re going with its arrow.
• Head Torch – It’s always better to be over-prepared than under-prepared.
• Sturdy hiking shoes – our favourites are Salomon XA Discovery Trail Runners.
• Extra warm clothes – the wind can whip like crazy through these mountains.
• Rain Jacket – high winds and sudden rainfalls can happen!
• Sunscreen – quite the contrary to a rain jacket, but that Aussie outback can get HOT.
• Water Bottles – preferably VERY hard plastic or metal, the chances of dropping it are high.
• Sunglasses – those rocks can be mightily reflective.
• Small Backpack – A hike is never complete without snacks. 
• SNACKS – The highlight of our lives.
• Camera – DER… If it’s not documented, did it really happen!?
• Camping equipment – If you’re embarking on an overnight hike, make sure to pack warm sleeping bags and a mat. It can get cold up on top of the hills even in summer!
• Cooking equipment – Again, if it’s cold nothing will beat a warm cuppa.
• First Aid Kit – Unbeknown to Dylan, I always put this in our pack. He’s clumsy on a good day!

How To Get To The Warrumbungles

A 5.5 hr drive north of Sydney will land you in Coonabarabran, the closest town to the national park. From Coonabarabran, a 30-minute drive south-west on Timor Rd – which turns into John Renshaw Pkwy – will get you to the Warrumbungles Visitor Centre.

Where To Eat Near The Warrumbungles

Coonabarabran is a small country town with plenty of food options including supermarkets and take-away shops. We can vouch for the bakery which has delicious pies. 

Where To Stay Near The Warrumbungles

If camping isn’t your style, plenty of accommodation options in Coonabarabran will work nicely. For something completely different, the Skywatch Observatory offers private suites to stay while you star gaze and enjoy the rest of the Warrumbungle National Park. But if that doesn’t suit, below are our top suggestions for accommodation in Coonabarabran.

We fell in love with the Warrumbungles the moment we entered the park. These mountains offered so much diversity we couldn’t even get bored on the easier hikes. But don’t take our word for it. Go and explore the Warrumbungle Ranges for yourself. If you’ve got any questions we haven’t covered in this post, please feel free to ask away!