Breadknife And Grand High Tops Walk | An Epic Overnight Hike For Sunset Views From Bluff Mountain

No other destination in New South Wales compares to the unique wonders of Warrumbungle National Park. From the moment you witness the mountains materialising above the western plains, you’ll understand why this is our favourite national park in the state.

There are many walking trails etched into this magnificent landscape, but the best hike to showcase the incredible remnants of the 13 million-year-old shield volcano is the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk.

We have completed almost every hiking trail in the Warrumbungle National Park and from our experience, we have created the ultimate guide to the best 2 to 3-day circuit. This circuit will incorporate the popular Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk, but it also includes must-visit side trips and optional add-ons for those wishing to extend their adventure.

In this post, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk – including the best time to summit Bluff Mountain and our top suggested campsites along the route.

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Essential Information About The Breadknife And Grand High Tops Walk In Warrumbungles National Park

Where Does The Breadknife And Grand High Tops Walk Start?

The Warrumbungle National Park sprawls across central-north New South Wales, roughly 6 hours northwest of Sydney. The trailhead for the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk can be found at Picham Car Park, located opposite the Warrumbungle Visitor Centre.

Pincham Car Park provides plenty of space for visitors, with a toilet and information signs located at the top of the car park. There is no drinkable water at the car park, the closest being at the visitor centre or Camp Blackman.

The closest town to the Warrumbungles is Coonabarabran, located 30 minutes east of Pincham Car Park. Coonabarabran offers all the essential services, including plenty of cafes, a large Woolworths supermarket and a hospital.

How To Get To Pincham Car Park In The Warrumbungles National Park

As you might have expected, there are no easy public transportation choices to reach Warrumbungle National Park. While you could train from Sydney to Lithgow, then use the bus services from Lithgow to Coonabarabran and finally, a taxi to the Warrumbungles, this will be a very long and expensive journey. The most convenient way to access the Warrumbungles is by driving yourself.

The drive from Coonabarabran to Warrumbungle National Park is straightforward along well-maintained sealed roads suitable for all vehicles. Just head west from Coonabarabran on Timor Road, which then becomes John Renshaw Drive. All campgrounds, hiking trail car parks, and the visitor centre are accessible from John Renshaw Drive.

Click here for directions from Sydney to the Warrumbungles National Park

How Hard Is The Breadknife And Grand High Tops Walk?

The Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk offers a fun challenge for budding hikers and a pleasant trek for the more experienced. The walk’s main challenge lies in the steep incline near the Grand High Tops and some small sections with uneven rocky terrain.

However, if you’re feeling uncomfortable, you can avoid the steep and rocky section of the trail by taking the Dagda Shortcut. This cuts out the steep ascent to Lugh’s Throne, but we highly recommend giving it a go as it’s one of the best parts of the hike and offers the greatest views!

Bluff Mountain, on the other hand, is slightly more challenging. This summit walk requires some slight rock scrambling as you near the peak, some of which is quite exposed. However, the first half of the summit trail follows a rutted dirt track, leading to a stunning viewpoint at the start of the boulders. If necessary, you can reach this point and then turn back.

Navigation On The Breadknife And Grand High Tops Walk

Navigation on the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk is made easy with well-placed signage throughout the circuit and an obvious path to follow most of the time. The only part of the circuit that requires some navigation experience is Bluff Mountain, where there are no trail markers whatsoever.

That being said, the track leading up to Bluff Mountain is well-worn and relatively straightforward to follow. However, if you’re inexperienced with unmarked trails, we recommend using a GPS app like AllTrails to track your hike.

🥾 AllTrails has been our go-to for over three years and we rely on AllTrails + for all our adventures. From our experience, we wholeheartedly recommend this platform for your navigation and trail research. Use our code LESSTRAVELLED30 to receive 30% off your subscription!

Best Time To Hike The Breadknife And Grand High Tops Walk

While the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk can be done year-round, the best time to hike in the Warrumbungles is through the cooler months – from April to October. Summer can be seriously scorching on the trails and snakes are commonly seen during this time.

We visited the Warrumbungles in winter on both occasions, which is our top recommended time to hike the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk. Not only will you encounter fewer crowds, but there’s also a better chance of finding water along the trail.

Can You Do The Breadnknife And Grand High Tops Walk In A Day?

The Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk can easily be done in a day. Hikers typically take an average of 5 – 6 hours to complete the circuit, with an additional 1 to 2 hours if Bluff Mountain is included.

The reason that we suggest completing this trek as an overnight hike is so you can experience a magical sunrise or sunset from Bluff Mountain’s summit. This also allows you extra time to explore the volcanic rock formations and take advantage of the side trips along the route.

What To Pack For Your Breadknife And Grand High Tops Walk

The Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk requires a full day at the least to complete. Since water availability is inconsistent along the track, it’s essential to bring enough water for drinking and cooking if camping overnight. We suggest carrying at least 3 litres per person for drinking and an additional litre per person for cooking.

For the most part, the trail is well-maintained and we found that trail runners or hiking shoes were the best choice for footwear – especially during the hotter months!

There are no facilities along the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Trek, aside from a drop toilet and a water tank at Balor Hut. This means that you’ll need to pack all the hiking essentials for your overnight hike, including cooking equipment as fires are seasonally prohibited in the park.

Camping Options For The Breadknife And Grand High Tops Walk

Along the main route that we recommend for the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk, you’ll have the opportunity to camp at either Balor Hut Campground, Dows Camp or Ogma Camp. There are two other campsites that you’ll pass – Camp Pincham right at the start and Hurley’s Camp halfway between Goulds Circuit and Balor Hut – but these aren’t as ideal for the route.

Balor Hut Campground

Balor Hut and the adjoining campground are situated close to the Grand High Tops, allowing you to spend the afternoon wandering through the spires and enjoying a sunset from Lugh’s Throne. However, it is the most expensive and popular campground for hikers due to the extra amenities that are available.

The campground fee is $12.30 for up to two people, with a limit of 4 people per site. Additional campers are charged $6.15 each. The hut costs $24.60 for up to 4 but can accommodate up to 8 people if you’re willing to share a bunk. Extra campers are also charged $6.15 each.

Book Balor Hut here.

Balor Hut Campground Facilities

• Drop toilet
• Tank water (untreated)
• Firepit
• 2 sites

Balor Hut Facilities

• 4 slab bunk beds (there are no mattresses so bring your sleeping mat)
• Table
• Woodfire

Dows Camp

Dows Camp lies at the base of Bluff Mountain, with a lovely little stream flowing beside the clearing. This is our top pick of the bunch, allowing you to enjoy sunrise or sunset on top of Bluff Mountain. With only three sites available, you can be sure to have a peaceful night under the stars.

However, there are no toilets so you must bring a shovel and dig a 15 – 20 cm hole at least 100 m away from the water source. Furthermore, the stream can often dry up in summer so don’t rely solely on having water here.

The fee for Dows Camp is $6 for up to two people, which is the maximum per site.

Book Dows Camp here.

Dows Camp Facilities

• 3 sites
• Creek nearby (need to treat water before drinking and sometimes dries up)

Ogma Camp

Ogma Camp is very similar to Dows Camp, with three sites located in a shady clearing between Bluff Mountain and Mount Exmouth. It boasts arguably better views compared to Dows Camp and is our recommended choice if you intend to hike to the summit of Mount Exmouth during your trip.

There is no water source at Ogma Camp or along the track to Mount Exmouth. You won’t likely find another reliable water source until you return to Pincham Car Park, so be sure to carry enough for the remainder of your hike.

The fee for Ogma Camp is $6 for up to two campers, which is the limit per site.

Book Ogma Camp here.

Ogma Camp Facilities

• 3 sites

Bluff Mountain Summit Wilderness Camp

For the ultimate sunrise experience, there is a small area on the Summit of Bluff Mountain that is suitable for 1-2 small tents. However, this area is exposed so be sure the weather is calm and no high winds are on the forecast.

This is not a designated campsite and there are no facilities so you must be mindful and respect the environment by following the leave no trace principles.

*Prices are current as of August 2024

Breadknife And Grand High Tops Track Notes

Pincham Car Park To Balor Hut

Distance: 5 km
Time: 1.5 – 2 hours
Elevation Gain: 306 m

Leaving Pincham Car Park, follow the directions for The Breadknife, which will lead you along a well-maintained gravel path that meanders alongside Spirey Creek, shaded by dry eucalypt forests. 

The easy trail allows you to lose yourself in the peaceful scenery and before you know it, you’ll arrive at the West Spirey Creek Track junction. To save your knees slightly, we recommend walking the circuit in a clockwise direction – leaving the West Spirey Creek Track for your return. 

Continuing south, you’ll reach another track junction roughly 400 m later. This is the starting point of the Goulds Circuit, which reconnects to the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Track 500 m further along. This circuit adds on an extra 3.5 km, but it’s totally worth it, offering sensational vistas of the Volcanic landscape.

Returning to the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Track, you’ll pass another turn-off for Spirey View Lookout 500 m later. We only suggest taking this 300 m detour to the lookout if you decide not to do the Goulds Circuit as the views are very similar – but better from Goulds Circuit.

The gradient begins to increase from this point and you’ll start to glimpse the impressive volcanic spires and dykes from the trail. Then finally, you’ll reach a set of stairs that will lead you to the Balor Hut junction.

Balor Hut is just 100 m from the junction, making it a quick detour if you want to fill up your water bottles from the rainwater tank or use the drop toilet.

Note: Don’t rely exclusively on getting water from the tank at Balor Hut. It is common for the tank to run dry during summer. Furthermore, it’s recommended to treat the water before drinking using iodine tablets, a water filtration system or boiling.

Balor Hut To Lugh’s Throne Via The Breadknife Gap

Distance: 1 km
Time: 20 – 40 minutes
Elevation Gain: 192 m

Once you’ve had a rest at Balor Hut, get ready for a steep climb through the rocky landscape to Lugh’s Throne high above. The track follows alongside the base of the Breadknife, consisting of a mixture of stairs, gravel steps and some rocky sections.

After 500 m, you’ll arrive at a small clearing. The track continues to the left, but if you want to climb up onto the Breadknife, take the goat track that leads to the right through the encroaching forest the the Breadknife Gap.

You’ll want to have a good head for heights to step out onto the precipitous Breadknife Gap, which rises high above the swaying treetops below. But if you can stomach it, the views across the Warrumbungles range from this perch are simply incredible.

After exploring the Breadknife, head back to the main track and follow the slightly rougher trail that sharply climbs around Lugh’s Wall towards Lugh’s Throne. The last stretch to Lugh’s Throne is a bit tougher, mainly involving navigating boulders and rock slabs. However, there are plenty of trail markers to guide you along the easiest path.

Standing atop Lugh’s Throne, you’re gifted with panoramic views of the magnificently unique volcanic landscape. Spires and dykes surround you, soaring above the leafy eucalypt canopy – providing a hands-on geological history lesson of volcanic action.

Lugh’s Throne To Dows Camp

Distance: 1.6 km
Time: 40 – 60 minutes
Elevation Gain: 81 m

Lugh’s Throne makes for a perfect lunch spot when the weather is fine, giving you enough time to take in the unique rock formations and enjoy the views across the sweeping pains beyond the Warrumbungles.

Once you’re ready to continue, follow the orange reflectors on the rocks as they lead you west towards Dows Camp. You’ll encounter one final tricky descent down a steep rock slab before landing back on a dirt path.

The path from this point is slightly rougher compared to the track from Pincham Car Park to the Balor Hut Track junction, but with minimal elevation, it is easy to navigate.

After roughly 600 m, you’ll arrive at Dagda Saddle, the meeting point for the Dagda Shortcut which takes you past Balor Hut Campground. If you’re looking for the shortest route you can return via this track and be back at the car park within 5.7 km.

However, to enjoy the full circuit and experience the magical views from Bluff Mountain, continue west to Dows Camp. Compared to the climb to Lugh’s Throne, you’ll have a relatively easy walk for the last kilometre, with only a slight elevation gain.

Finally, after approximately 2.5 hours, you’ll arrive at Dows Camp – our recommended campsite for your overnight hike. This campsite is the only other one aside from Balor Hut that has a potential water source, which comes from a creek that flows beside the small clearing. This creek often dries up in summer, but it was flowing enough for us to fill our bottles during our winter trip.

Note: Don’t forget to treat this water before drinking, there is no doubt in our minds that it would be contaminated by human faeces.

Dows Camp To Bluff Mountain Return

Distance: 2.6 km
Time: 1 – 2 hours
Elevation Gain: 236 m

Once you’ve set yourself up at Dows Camp and enjoyed a little rest, it’s time for one last climb to reach Bluff Mountain for sunset. A sign at the campsite directs you to the trailhead which begins to climb the southwestern face of Bluff Mountain.

The rutted trail starts off muddy, but as you zigzag up the rocky mountainside between towering grass trees and twisted eucalypts, it becomes drier with larger boulders to navigate.

After approximately 800 m, the trail swings north and you’ll find yourself clambering up the rocky spine of Bluff Mountain towards the summit. This section can get a little tricky to navigate as there are no trail markers along the Bluff Mountain Track. But as long as you keep vigil and look for the worn rocks – which will be a lighter colour – then you’ll stay on course.

Eventually, after roughly 20 – 40 minutes, you’ll arrive at the peak of Bluff Mountain – which is marked by a stick wedged into a pile of rocks! There are plenty of vantage points on offer at the vast summit, which provides unobstructed views to the east of the Breadknife, Belougery Spire and Crater Bluff, and even more spectacular vistas to the northwest of Mount Exmouth and the distant Western Plains.

Settle down on a comfy rock slab to watch the sunset paint the sky in hues of red, pink and purple. We divided our time between watching the spires turn red and the sun setting beside Mount Exmouth.

When you’re finished watching the show, head back along the same trail to Dows Camp below. It took us nearly half the time to descend to camp, making the total walking time for the summit hike around an hour.

Dows Camp To Ogma Camp

Distance: 2.3 km
Time: 30 – 45 minutes
Elevation Gain: 55 m

After a peaceful morning waking to the soothing sounds of native birds nearby, leave Dows Camp and head north towards Ogma Gap, following the signs to Pincham Car Park via the West Spirey Track.

The ridgeline trail is quite straightforward, only requiring your full attention in a few rocky sections. This allows you to spend most of your time gawking at Bluff Mountain to your left and the emerging views of Mount Exmouth in the distance.

If you wake early, you’ll have the chance to admire the rising sun from various viewpoints along the ridgeline trail. While none provide a clear view from the path, you can catch glimpses of the spires through the trees.

If you’re feeling like a more adventurous sunrise mission, you can navigate through the bush to the first or second rocky peak, located approximately 500 m and 1 km from Dows Camp.

After you traverse the western side of the second rocky peak, the trail steepens and rocks begin to infiltrate the track more consistently. Halfway down the steep descent, you’ll find our favourite viewpoint along the path that showcases Mount Exmouth magnificently.

Stop to take in the new vistas before continuing your descent to Ogma Camp below. A final short traverse around the eastern side of a small highpoint will lead you to Ogma Camp, where you can stop to rest before the final leg of the journey.

Ogma Camp To Pincham Car Park

Distance: 4.3 km
Time: 1 – 1.5 hours
Elevation Gain: 25 m

If you wish to spend another night in the wilderness, we suggest camping here and exploring Mount Exmouth and the Cathedral Arch in the afternoon before descending to Pincham Car Park the next morning.

No matter which you choose, once you’re ready to return to Pincham Car Park, head northeast on the West Spirey Creek Track. Stone steps guide you down the initially steep descent, leading you deeper into the dense eucalypt forest.

You’ll follow alongside the commonly dried-up West Spirey Creek, enjoying a far quieter and more natural track compared to the Grand High Tops Track on the other side of the mountain.

After traversing around the base of another rocky mountain, you’ll meet up with the Grand High Tops Track 3 km after leaving Ogma Camp. An easy 1.3 km along the initial track where you began your walk is all that’s left before you arrive back at Pincham Car Park.

Optional Side Trips

Goulds Circuit

Distance: 3.5 km loop (takes off 500 m from the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk)
Time: 45 – 60 minutes
Difficulty: Easy – Moderate

Goulds Circuit leads you to two summits – Febar Tor and Macha Tor – and is a great addition to look out upon all the wonders you’re about to explore. It’s also a fantastic trail to get you off the paved path for a while and onto a more exciting dirt track.

Bluff Mountain

Distance: 2.6 km (from Dows Camp return)
Time: 1 – 1.5 hours
Difficulty: Moderate – Hard

We’ve outlined the Bluff Mountain summit walk in the track notes above, but for those quickly reading – make sure you check out this side trip! While it needs some experience on steep and rugged trails, Bluff Mountain is one of the top spots along the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk to catch the sunset or sunrise.

Mount Exmouth

Distance: 8.4 km (from Ogma Camp return)
Time: 2.5 – 3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate – Hard

While this is by far the longest detour on the trail, it’s a must if you have spare time and good weather. Mount Exmouth is the tallest peak in Warrumbungle National Park and provides an incredible display of the contrasting eastern and western flora. The path winds steeply through a damp, moss-covered forest, with giant grass trees appearing oddly out of place.

Trail markers lead you along the easiest route and once you reach the sparse and rocky summit, you’re gifted with panoramic views that stretch for kilometres over the distant plains and closer rock formations.

Cathedral Arch

Distance: 3.2 km (from Ogma Camp return)
Time: 45 – 60 minutes
Difficulty: Moderate

The Cathedral Arch is a rock bridge connecting two outcrops, with a lone tree perched on top. Located off to the side of the Mount Exmouth Summit Trail, it serves as a perfect side trip on your journey to Mount Exmouth. If you encounter poor weather at Ogma Camp and choose to skip Mount Exmouth, this mini adventure will impress you regardless of the conditions.

Other Important Information For Hiking The Breadknife And Grand High Tops Walk

FAQs About The Breadknife And Grand High Tops Walk

Is There Phone Reception On The Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk?

Yes, while limited in some areas, there is Telstra phone reception intermittently throughout the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk. We had plenty of service at Dows Camp and on Lugh’s Throne and Bluff Mountain. We didn’t check the service at Balor Hut so unfortunately, we can’t confirm there is any there.

How Tall Is The Breadknife?

The Breadknife rises 90 m above the surrounding eucalypt forest, with a width of only 4 m in some parts! It’s an incredible phenomenon that you’ll likely never see elsewhere in Australia.

How Was The Breadknife Formed?

The Breadknife was created by volcanic activity, where molten rock seeped through a crack in the earth’s surface. Upon cooling, the magma formed a cast of the fissure. Eventually, erosion revealed the dyke, which is the structure visible today.

Can I Summit Bluff Mountain In A Day

Yes, the Grand High Tops Circuit and Bluff Mountain Hike covers a distance of 16.8 km and typically requires around 6 to 8 hours to complete.

Leave No Trace

The Warrumbungles is a magnificent national park that showcases some truly incredible displays of nature. Not only will you wander through an ancient landscape formed by volcanic action, but you’ll also experience the blending of two distinct types of vegetation – the eastern coastal zone and the dry western plains.

This area is rich with history, flora and fauna and needs our help to continue thriving. It’s as simple as following the 7 Leave No Trace Principles, especially proper toileting practices and packing out all of your rubbish – including tissues and food scraps.

Please refrain from feeding any animals that you encounter as it’s detrimental to their health and their behaviour. You’ll find a toilet at Balor Hut, but no rubbish bins throughout the circuit.

Where To Stay In The Warrumbungles National Park

Camping In Warrumbungle National Park

For the ultimate Warrumbungle National Park experience, stay at one of the car-accessible campgrounds within the park. This allows easy access to all walking trails and the ability to truly experience the magic of the Dark Sky Park.

• Camp Blackman – This is the best campground in the Warrumbungles, where you’ll have access to showers, drinking water, toilets and barbeque facilities. This campground costs $24.60 for up to 2 people for an unpowered site and $34.85 for a powered site.
• Camp Wambelong – Camp Wambelong is slightly cheaper, charging $16.40 for up to 2 people on an unpowered site. There are toilets and barbeque facilities here, but no showers or drinking water.
• Camp Walaay – This campground is suited to large groups of 20 – 50 people. You can only book the entire site, which costs a minimum of $123 for 15 people. The sites include toilets and barbeque facilities.

Accommodation Near The Warrumbungles

If camping isn’t your thing, there are plenty of holiday homes and hotels to choose from. The nearest town is Coonabarabran, situated 30 minutes east of the Warrumbungles Visitor Center. You’ll also discover several quaint accommodations along the road to the Warrumbungles.

• Coonandry Cottage Farmstay – A quaint pet-friendly cottage that sleeps up to 5 guests, located on the outskirts of Coonababran.
• Mirrabrook Cottage – Found along Timor Road, close to the Warrumbungles National Park, this 2 bedroom cottage boasts stunning views of the rocky mountains beyond.
• Little Argyle Tine House – While this holiday home is located a little further from the Warrumbungles, it’s a fantastic choice for a couple searching for a little peace and quiet.
• Dark Sky Eco Retreat – For those with a passion for the night sky, this is a worthwhile splurge! You’ll not only get to stay in a beautiful accommodation right in the Dark Sky Park, but you’ll also have the opportunity to view the skies from their private observatory that features an 11-inch telescope.

Final Thoughts

If there’s a single national park you must visit in New South Wales, it’s the Warrumbungles. You won’t fully understand its magnificence until you witness the unique landscape firsthand! And the ultimate hike to experience the wonders is the Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk.

We suggest planning an overnight camping trip for this hike, but a full-day trip will still be amazing. Just ensure you carry enough water for your adventure in case you don’t come across any along the trail. You can stop in at the Visitor Centre upon your arrival to ask about the water levels at Balor Hut.

We hope that this guide has fueled your excitement and helped you plan your Warrumbungles adventure. Feel free to drop us a comment or reach out via our Instagram DMs if you have any further questions.

Happy Hiking 🙂