Annapurna Base Camp Trek Itinerary | An Awesome Alternative Route

Years ago, I stumbled across an image of the majestic Annapurna region and knew I had to visit one day. It took a while before I finally made it to Nepal and by then, the Annapurna Base Camp Trek had become one of the most popular treks in Nepal – second only to the treks in the Everest Region.

But I couldn’t let go of the image that stole my heart. Instead of foregoing my dream, we decided to spice things up a little. We got in contact with Himalayan Masters – our favourite trekking company – who helped us curate an alternative route that offered so much more than just the crowded Annapurna Base Camp Trek.

During our trek through the Annapurna Region, we explored a mystical high-altitude lake, wandered along breathtaking ridgelines and through enchanting rhododendron forests, stood beneath the world’s 10th highest peak and were touched by the unforgettable hospitality of the Nepalese locals.

In this post, you’ll find a detailed itinerary that outlines each day of our Annapurna Trek – including plenty of images to fuel your wanderlust. Our goal for this guide is to inspire and help you decide whether this route is the ideal choice for you as well – or a variation of it if you’re short on time.

Note: If you’re already sold on hiking to Annapurna Base Camp and need a little more information, then check out our comprehensive guide to planning the Annapurna Base Camp Trek.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase of a product we recommend through one of our links, we may make a small commission at no extra cost to you! This helps to support our blog and enables us to continue providing you with helpful tips and exciting adventures, so thank you 🙂

Annapurna Base Camp Trek Itinerary – Including Poon Hill, Khayer Lake, Mulde Peak & Mardi Himal Base Camp

There are various ways that you can complete the Annapurna Base Camp Trek, the most straightforward being a 5 – 7 day trek starting from Ghandruk and returning the same way.

Below we will explain our personal itinerary for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek that we completed with Himalayan Masters. Our trek took a total of 17 days and included two additional routes – both of which can also be completed individually without doing the Annapurna Base Camp Trek.

We chose to trek the Annapurna Region with a guide, which is mandatory but not fully policed as of 2024. We recommend using a guide to avoid any complications and to eliminate the hassle of organising all the logistics yourself.

If you choose a smaller local company like Himalayan Masters, you will generally be able to customise your itinerary to suit your desires.

Explore The Himalayas With Himalayan Masters

We chose Himalayan Masters for our treks in Nepal and couldn’t recommend them highly enough!

If you’re searching for a Nepalese trekking agency that will go to lengths to ensure that your Nepal experience is the best it can be, then look no further!

Use our code TRACKS5 for 5% off your booking.

Begin Your Himalayan Adventure

Day 1: Kathmandu To Pokhara

Transit Day: 10 – 12 hours by bus

After meeting our guide and finalising logistics with our trekking company in Kathmandu the day before – where they organised all our trekking permits for the Annapurna Region – we jumped on a bus from the bustling tourist hub of Thamel and began the gruelling 10 – 12 hour ride to Pokhara.

There is no sugarcoating it, the bus ride from Kathmandu to Pokhara is horrible. The journey is only 200 km yet it takes anywhere from an optimistic 7 – 8 hours to a realistic 10 – 12 hours. The dusty road is in a dismal state and the traffic is relentless.

Our company organised one of the mid-range buses for us that had air conditioning and relatively comfortable seats. There were more luxurious buses in the line-up and far less desirable buses as well.

We stopped three times, each of which had a public squat toilet and somewhere to buy snacks and drinks. The lunch stop was at a roadhouse-style restaurant where you could choose between a buffet of various dishes or a buffet-style dal bhat. We highly recommend the dal bhat over the other buffet. 

Once we finally arrived in Pokhara, our guide led us to a taxi and we made our way to our hotel in the centre of the city. We were shown to our luxurious room before being left to wander through Pokhara to find our own dinner.

Note: You can opt to fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara, which takes 20 minutes – but we chose to avoid the extra cost.

Accommodation: Queens Park Hotel, Pokhara

The Queens Park Hotel is a high-quality hotel located near Phewa Lake. The rooms are very comfortable, with a delightfully high-pressure, hot shower. Our stay included a fantastic buffet breakfast before starting our trek the next day, and the food and service were both amazing.

Our company organised for us to stay at the same hotel before and after our trek, so we were able to leave a small backpack with the staff that included a change of clothes and other items we didn’t need for our trek.

Day 2: Pokhara (822 m) To Ulleri (2,088 m)

Transit Morning: 2 hours by private Jeep

After enjoying a quick introduction to Pokhara and the many delicious restaurants lining the streets, we woke early, eager for our adventure to truly begin.

We filled up with a tasty buffet breakfast at our hotel before grabbing our packs and jumping in a private Jeep that awaited outside. We drove out of Pokhara, gaining our first glimpse of the majestic Machhapuchhre (Fish Tail) Peak that would follow us for the majority of our trek.

The Jeep ride from Pokhara to Birethanti was pleasant and uneventful. But once we left the checkpoint village (where many start walking), we continued along a steep and rough 4WD track that rattled our bones for another hour.

Finally, we reached a set of steps beneath Hile – our starting point – and snapped a quick group photo before walking into the small village for lunch.

Lunch Stop – Annapurna Guest House, Hile

There were several teahouses to choose from in the cute village of Hile. Our guide steered us toward the Annapurna Guest House which boasted lovely views of the terraced mountainside.

We had our first of many dal bhat’s of the trip, which was delicious and plentiful – with the option for seconds, which became a regular occurrence!

Hile – Ulleri

After filling our bellies, we donned our packs and walked through the village, following the trail as it ascended towards Ulleri. The trail went straight up from Hile, crossing the snaking river via swing bridges and weaving through small villages.

We climbed up a staggering 3,200 stone steps, finding plenty of excuses to stop frequently to admire the views of the terraced hills across the folded valley and pat the continuous stream of adorable puppies along the way.

Thankfully for our legs, we arrived in Ulleri after 2 hours of walking. We welcomed the short distance for our first day, which was a little shock to the system.

Accommodation: Purnima Guest House

We stopped at the Purnima Guest House for our first night on the Annapurna Base Camp Trek. The teahouse boasted stunning vistas across the plunging valley beneath Annapurna South – which was sadly hidden in the clouds when we arrived.

The Purnima Guest House was comfortable and the staff were very friendly. The rooms were clean and spacious, complete with an ensuite shower and Western toilet – something we didn’t expect.

Day 3: Ulleri (2,088 m) To Ghorepani (2,885 m)

Ulleri To Nangethanti

Suggested Time: 2 – 2.5 hours
Our Time: 1 hr 50 minutes

We woke to the magnificent Annapurna South looking down on us from the clear valley. A faint pink glow illuminated the whispy clouds as we enjoyed the sunrise from our guesthouse.

After a relaxed and tasty breakfast of muesli and porridge, we began hiking around 8 am. The first 45 minutes continued along stone steps, weaving through numerous tiny villages boasting a backdrop of Annapurna South and, eventually, Machhapuchhre (the Fish Tail).

Note: Each small village we passed was stocked with plenty of snacks, toilet paper and coffee for sale – as well as guesthouses with restaurants, wifi and hot showers.

Once we passed through the slightly larger village of Banthanti, the trail veered right to wander through the forest. Our guide led us along the road instead to avoid the crowds, which was faster and easier. However, if you’re game for extra elevation gain, we recommend you take the forest route for a more picturesque experience and the chance to spot monkeys!

In any case, it was a lovely walk along the winding valley, the landscape dominated by flowering rhododendron trees. After roughly 45 minutes, we joined up with the forest trail and wandered alongside a beautiful river with the perfect swimming hole. We chose to keep going and crossed a cute bridge to arrive at yet another little village called Kumari.

We stopped for a brief rest at Kumari before continuing through the forest on a slightly rough trail scattered with rocks and the occasional tree root. There were still the occasional steps to assist in the more rugged areas of the forest, but the trail wasn’t quite as groomed as the beginning of the day – much to our delight.

After another 20 minutes, we found ourselves in Nangethanti, a picturesque mountain village with several options for lunch.

Lunch Stop – Green View Guesthouse, Nangethanti

Our guide, Ram, steered us toward the Green View Guesthouse for lunch. It offered seating in a sunny courtyard, under shelter and inside to accommodate all weather conditions.

Of course, we had the dal bhat again and it was great! We were honestly wondering if you could get a bad dal bhat by this point – especially when you have a guide leading you to the best places!

The answer to that is no, we didn’t experience a bad dal bhat through the whole of our Annapurna Trek!

Nangethanti To Ghorepani

Suggested Time: 1.5 – 2 hours
Our Time: 1 hr 30 minutes

The trail continued in a similar fashion, along a dusty, slightly rough path with a mixture of dirt and stone steps. The stand-out feature of this section of the Annapurna Base Camp Trek was the countless rhododendron trees that were bursting with colour. Various shades of pink and red flowers made the whole forest come alive.

Between Nangethanti and Ghorepani, there was only one small restaurant in a tiny village named Dittha – the Dittha Cottage. It looked like a cute place to eat, but we didn’t stop there so we can’t comment on the food. But if you’d rather have more options, we suggest stopping at Nangethanti for lunch like we did.

Finally, after another hour and a half, we made it to the bustling village of Ghorepani. Our guide met with the Tourist Police at the checkpoint to provide our information and permits before we continued through Lower Ghorepani to Upper Ghorepani where we stayed.

We arrived with plenty of time to wander through the village, which was equipped with coffee shops, a bar with pool tables and plenty of stalls selling various merchandise. If you score a clear afternoon, the sunset from Ghorepani is simply incredible.

Accommodation – Snow View Lodge, Ghorepani

Our lodgings for the night were at the Snow View Lodge, tucked into the main cobblestone street with a partial view of the Dhaulagiri Mountain Range.

The lodge gave off a quaint ski village vibe, with a cosy restaurant overlooking the village and the distant mountains. The rooms were small but clean and we had our own bathroom with free hot water, free charging and free wifi.

Note: Charge all your electronics before dinner. The electricity to the power points in the rooms was turned off at 8 pm and turned back on around 7 am.

Day 4: Ghorepani (2,885 m) To Swanti (2,251 m) – Including Poon Hill For Sunrise

Poon Hill Sunrise

Suggested Walking Time: 1.5 – 2 hours return
Our Walking Time: 1 hr return

One thing we’ve learnt from our countless days in the mountains is that sunrise is always your best chance of clear skies! 

So, like everyone else visiting Ghorepani, we set off at 4:45 am to hike to the top of Poon Hill to watch the sunrise cast its soft yellow glow over the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna mountain ranges.

The walk consists of many steps winding from the upper Ghorepani village, with many people trudging up together. You’ll stop a quarter of the way up to pay the tourist fee of 100 NRP each before continuing to ascend.

The 1.5 km ascent took us roughly 30 – 45 minutes and we arrived early at the peak to snag a good spot to set up the tripod.

As everyone else filed into the wide open space, which was even equipped with a snacks and hot drink stall, the vibe was thrumming with excitement as we all anticipated the sunrise.

We calculated that we were watching the sunrise with at least 300 other trekkers! Even so, we would still recommend waking early for this experience if you’re staying the night at Ghorepani.

We were very lucky to see a spectacular show, with formidable clouds forming over the peaks of the Annapurna range and a soft pinky-yellow glow illuminating the lower peaks of Dhaulagiri.

After we enjoyed the sunrise, we returned to Ghorepani and enjoyed a slow morning, filling up on a massive breakfast of porridge, eggs, fried potato and Tibetan bread before getting ready for another day of hiking.

Ghorepani To Swanta

Suggested Time: 2 – 2.5 hours
Our Time: 2 hours

Saying goodbye to the majority of the crowds, we began our short journey down towards Swanta – following the signs for Tatopani.

The trail descended mostly, winding through the rhododendron forests and tiny little villages – some seemingly abandoned. The peaks of Annapurna South and some of the Dhaulagiri range peeked out above the lower hills, offering a stunning view as we walked.

We popped out onto a road for a brief moment before returning to stone steps. These only lasted for a short while before the track became more natural and rough – much more our style!

We continued weaving in and out of the forest, intermittently crossing roads and passing by farmhouses. A cute little puppy came to greet us at one of the farmhouses, where the kids also stopped to watch us pass by.

Once we passed through a slightly larger village, Chitre, we found ourselves on an even more rugged singletrack that steeply descended down to the valley floor. This was a very dusty, rocky and loose trail, but it was easy to navigate with blue and white markers keeping you on track.

Eventually, we walked through some paddocks with buffaloes grazing and crossed the bridge at the valley floor. On the other side, we began a short but steep ascent to the village of Swanta. Parts of the track were extremely loose, having been redone after a landslide.

But finally, after following the steps that cut vertically through the zigzagging dirt road, we made it to the sprawling farm village and our teahouse for the night – Hotel Candle Inn.

Lunch & Accommodation – Hotel Candle Inn

We made it to Hotel Candle Inn right at lunchtime, dropped our packs in our little room, and went to enjoy the sunny lawn while our food was being prepared.

The Inn was a little more simple compared to the first two we stayed at, which we expected now that we were off the popular tourist route. The rooms were small but clean, with a shared bathroom on the same floor. Our luck with free hot showers and wifi ended, but the price was relatively low at 200 NRP per person for a shower and 300 NRP for wifi (as of spring 2024). 

Side Trip To Waterfall

Distance: 2.5 km return
Time: 1 – 1.5 hours return
Elevation Gain: 230 m

Seeing as we had plenty of time to spare, we decided to go for a little exploration to a nearby waterfall that our hosts at the guesthouse told us about.

A path led past the sheds beside the guesthouse and cut through the sparse forest before meeting up with the winding dirt road. We followed the dirt road east for roughly 750 m until reaching a stone wall.

We jumped over the stone wall and passed through an abandoned shelter, following a very faint track and a makeshift plastic packet trail marker that was hung on a branch.

The track wound down the steep slope to the base of a magnificent waterfall. The water plunges from a narrow gap in the boulders above, ending in a vibrant blue pool. The entire gully is filled with ferns and moss walls, making you forget you’re in the terraced farmlands of Nepal!

Dylan chose to go for a dip in the refreshing natural pool, partly to ease the sting of a nettle bush he fell into. 

Day 5: Swanta (2,251 m) To Khopra Danda (3,660 m)

Swanta To Danda Kharka (aka Chhistibang)

Suggested Time: 3 – 4 hours
Our Time: 3 hrs 10 minutes

Our fourth morning on our Annapurna Base Camp Trek started with a pretty sunrise and a partial view of the white peaks of Dhaulagiri. We downed another massive breakfast of potatoes, eggs and Tibetan bread, trying to gain as much energy as possible for our first truly challenging day.

We were slightly nervous about this section as it would be the highest altitude we’d experienced and over 1,500 m of elevation gain. So we set off early, just before 8 am, and slowly weaved through the village farms towards the shady forest.

The trail undulated for the first 3.5 km, allowing us to warm up and enjoy the beautiful leafy forest before the big climbs. At various points throughout the forest walk, we were gifted breathtaking views of the head of the valley. It was such a peaceful track, with not a single person passing us and only the sounds of chirping birds and the locals working in their fields on the other side of the deep valley.

After 1 hour and 20 minutes, we arrived at a pleasant waterfall and a hydro powerhouse. We crossed the river, stopping for a quick break beside the powerhouse before continuing on to Danda Kharka.

From the powerhouse, the trail zigzagged up the steep mountainside with little respite. The surroundings were slightly less impressive, but the amount of flowering rhododendrons made up for the lack of vibrant forest scenes.

We continued slowly and steadily up the steep path, finally reaching Danda Kharka after another 1 hour and 50 minutes. By this point, we had already climbed 790 m and were very ready for dal bhat!

Lunch Stop: Hotel Rockland, Danda Kharka

We were originally meant to stay at Danda Kharka but we made very good time and still felt rather fresh. So instead, we stopped for lunch before continuing onto Khopra Danda – which we were very excited about!

Hotel Rockland, where we would have stayed, consisted of a basic stone building and a courtyard where we sat for lunch. Trees obscured any views, but the food was once again delicious and the owners very welcoming.

Danda Kharka To Khopra Danda

Suggested Time: 2 – 3 hours
Our Time: 2 hours

After a sufficiently long break to refuel, we began the final climb to Khopra Danda. The ascent was relentless, but the trail demanded just enough attention with loose and rocky sections to keep us from thinking too much about our burning legs. 

Eventually, roughly two-thirds of the way to our destination, we popped out above the trees and found ourselves traversing along an open slope that offered insane views of the deep valleys and folded snow-capped mountains.

Much to our delight, we passed plenty of yaks as we traversed the mountainside. Our guide informed us that they can become aggressive if you wander too close so we kept our distance and made enough noise to avoid surprising them.

A final steep yet short ascent ensued after our enjoyable traverse, delivering us to a convenient stone bench. The peaks of Annapurna South poked their heads above the clouds as we rested, offering us a magnificent view as we stopped for a brief rest.

After catching our breaths once more, we traversed for another 500 m before arriving at Khopra Danda, a tiny village we would call home for the night.

And boy did we get to witness one of the best sunsets of our time in Nepal!

Accommodation: Khopra Community Lodge

The teahouse at Khopra is very basic but cosy, and the small communal dining area thrums with energy when it’s full of trekkers – which is quite common. It’s obvious that you’re at higher altitudes, where everything is just that little bit harder, such as reliable running water.

The Khopra Community Lodge is the only guesthouse and when we arrived, it was almost full thanks to a large group. We had to share a room with two others – the first and only time on the trek – but luckily the rooms were spacious and relatively clean.

There is no hot water at the lodge and only traditional squat toilets. It can be bitingly cold at this altitude, so be prepared with plenty of layers and a warm sleeping bag.

The only major downside to the Khopra Community Lodge was the food – particularly breakfast. We highly recommend avoiding the porridge or muesli and sticking with chapati or Tibetan bread.

Day 6: Khopra Danda (3,660 m) To Khayer Lake (4,660 m) To Danda Kharka (3,000 m)

Khopra Danda To Khayer Lake Lodge

Suggested Time: 2.5 – 3.5 hours
Our Time: 2 hrs 30 minutes

Our morning started with a breathtaking sunrise that we conveniently admired from just outside our lodge! The ridgeline location of Khopra Danda allowed us to gaze upon both Dhaulagiri and Annapurna South, the vistas seriously rivalling those of Poon Hill – with a fraction of the crowds!

After running around photographing the epic scenes, we ate a quick breakfast and began our day trip to Khayer Lake just after 7 am.

We made slow progress to begin with, stopping every second to snap another photo or marvel at the mind-boggling views surrounding us. But eventually, we picked up the pace slightly as we traversed around the mountainside, gradually gaining elevation.

The trail consisted mostly of a dirt track and stone steps, but some sections required a little extra concentration thanks to roughly hewn rocks – some covered in snow and ice.

Aside from two separate steep ascents aided with stone steps, the trail was mostly a gradual incline as we wound around the rugged slopes towards a flat plain where we found Khayer Lake Lodge.

It took us quite a while longer than usual to ascend thanks to the higher altitude, but with a light day pack, we were content with constant quick stops and slow progress.

After 2 hours and 30 minutes, we arrived at the seasonal Khayer Lake Lodge. We took a short break and warmed up with masala tea, which was a little spicy and delicious. Our tea break came at the perfect time as we were beginning to feel the effects of altitude with some slight nausea and a headache.

Khayer Lake Lodge To Khayer Lake

Suggested Time: 2.5 – 3.5 hours
Our Time: 2 hrs 30 minutes

Once we had refuelled with tea and sat for a little while, we felt much better and continued on toward Khayer Lake. The rough and rocky trail descended for a brief moment before winding around a gully.

From here, the true challenge began. The final 2.5 km consisted of one giant ascent up zigzagging stone steps at high altitude. We were glad that the trail wasn’t highly demanding as the altitude made our going very, very slow!

Luckily, we had plenty of reasons to stop frequently to take in the magnificent landscape encompassing us. No words or photos can truly describe the feeling of being so close to the colossal mountains, so make sure you remember to stop and take it all in!

Eventually, we arrived at a sloping plain that provided some respite to the gruelling steep ascent. We traversed across the plain, carefully over the icy and muddy sections, until we reached yet another set of steep steps and rough rocks.

Another agonisingly slow ascent ensued, delivering us to a small Hindu temple. Ram rang the prayer bell and we celebrated making it this far before continuing along the final climb to the lake.

The final climb consisted of muddy ruts that traversed beneath the rocky peak to our left. But thankfully, the gradient was much more manageable and before we knew it, we arrived on the banks of Khayer Lake with whoops of excitement!

Khayer Lake To Khayer Lake Lodge

Suggested Time: 1.5 – 2 hours
Our Time: 1 hr 30 minutes

The sacred Khayer Lake, believed to give women fertility, sits in a depression surrounded by towering rock walls, with the peaks of Annapurna South and other smaller summits of the range providing an imposing backdrop.

If we’re being completely honest, Khayer Lake isn’t the most impressive we’ve seen and it wasn’t the highlight of our day. However, the accomplishment of making it to 4,660 m and the breathtaking landscape along the way made the trek 100% worthwhile.

In saying that, we loved the moody vibes of Khayer Lake and enjoyed exploring its icy banks.

Once we finished wandering around the lake, waiting for the clouds to clear just enough to spot the peaks beyond, we began the descent back to Khayer Lake Lodge for lunch.

It was wild to see how quickly we descended, having kept quite a bit of energy left thanks to ascending so slowly! We made it back to the lodge within 

We made it back to the lodge within 1 hour and 30 minutes, almost running to keep warm from the wild weather that began rolling in – which is highly common after midday!

Lunch Stop: Khayer Lake Lodge

I don’t think we have ever been so excited for dal bhat as we were after descending from Khayer Lake. The steaming food and another masala tea hit the spot and warmed us from the core. The dal bhat was one of the best we’ve had, with deliciously unique flavours.

Because the lodge was very small and only opened when trekkers planned to pass by, we put in our food order on the way to Khayer Lake so that it would be ready for when we returned. They had a menu that we could order from, but for such a small place we would recommend sticking to the local dishes.

We hung around for as long as we could before returning to the trail for the long descent back to Khopra.

Khayer Lake Lodge To Khopra Danda

Suggested Time: 2 – 3 hours
Our Time: 2 hours

After a lovely long break and plenty of tea, we began the return trip to Khopra Danda. It was quite a pleasant walk, with only a short section of ascending at the beginning. We managed to make it back to our guesthouse an hour and a half faster than the ascent – which was lucky because we had more to go!

Khopra Danda To Danda Kharka (Chhistibang)

Suggested Time: 2.5 – 3.5 hours
Our Time: 2 hrs 30 minutes

Our legs were protesting as we put on our backpacks and headed back to the trail to descend to Danda Kharka. We almost reconsidered leaving, but one look at the overflowing lodge reassured us of our decision.

The descent was relatively quick, but our legs and minds were beyond sore and tired after such a huge day! The forest section felt like it would never end but eventually, we arrived at Danda Kharka at 6 pm, making the total time for the day 11 hours!!

Accommodation: Chistibang Community Lodge (Danda Kharka)

Our guide, Ram, chose the upper lodge for us to stay in as it was empty and quiet compared to the one below. We were very happy about this after our day, having no energy left to be sociable! 

The lodge, though basic and barn-like, was cosy, clean, and the staff were very friendly. Showers cost 250 NRP per person, but the water was sufficiently hot – albeit very low pressure. A woodfire kept us warm in the middle of the dining hall as we ate dinner. I ventured out and ordered the fried veg noodles (aka chow mein), which was just as enormous as the dal bhat.

Day 7: Danda Kharka (3,000 m) To Dobato (3,480 m)

Danda Kharka To Bayeli

Suggested Time: 2.5 – 3.5 hours
Our Time: 2 hrs 30 minutes

After a much needed sleep-in, we lazily got ready for another day of trekking. We shared a tasty omelette and muesli with hot milk, which we were big fans of – especially in the chilly morning weather.

We finally left the Community Lodge after 9 am and began heading east, following the well-marked trail as it dipped into the flanking forest. Immediately, we were surrounded by towering rhododendrons bursting with pink flowers.

We descended towards a boulder-strewn creek on a narrow, dusty trail, all the while admiring the enchanting forest filled with moss-covered trunks. It was one of the most beautiful forests we had seen so far and we took our time to admire the change of scenery.

After crossing the creek on a small wooden bridge, the path continued along a steep slope with a gentle incline. A second bridge followed shortly after, leading to a trail that grew steeper and somewhat rougher.

Eventually, we emerged from the forest and were gifted layered views back down the valley. We could see Swanta and Danda Kharka and could just make out where Khopra Danda would be.

The trail continued climbing, gradually becoming steeper as we neared the head of the valley and the slope where Bayeli was located. After a particularly rocky and steep section, that was thankfully over quickly, we reached Bayeli and stopped for lunch.

Lunch Stop: Bayeli Community Lodge

Bayeli Community Lodge sat alone in a clearing overlooking the sweeping valley where Swanta lay. The breathtaking scenery is made even more magnificent when the weather is clear and you can see Dhaulagiri shimmering on the horizon.

The quaint lodge had a peaceful vibe and the owner was very lovely. We sat outside on the picnic table to enjoy our coffee and the beautiful view, but the wind forced us to retreat inside for our lunch of curry and fried noodles.

Bayeli To Dobato

Suggested Time: 1.5 hours
Our Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

Threatening clouds brewing on the horizon forced us to end our relaxing break earlier than we would have liked. We returned to the trail and continued to traverse the steep mountainside, enjoying the evolving views of the layered valleys below.

After roughly half an hour, the trail guided us to the ridgeline leading to Dobato and we were gifted our first partial glimpse of the incredible valley beneath the Annapurna range. The storm was escalating rapidly by this point, so we quickly snapped some shots and hurried along the rocky ridgeline – almost running at every thunderous boom echoing through the valley.

We weren’t quite fast enough and just before the final short ascent into Dobato, snow started falling thick and fast! Grateful it wasn’t raining and we wouldn’t be soaked, we slowed our pace and enjoyed the unexpected weather conditions.

By the time we made it to the village and into our lodge, a thick blanket of snow was already forming on the ground.

Accommodation: Hotel Dobato View Point

The tiny village of Dobato is perched on the side of the mountain with breathtaking views of Annapurna South and the rugged slopes across the valley. There are three lodges to choose from in Dobato and our guide chose the one highest on the hill, called Hotel Dobato View Point.

As is expected at higher altitudes, Hotel Dobato View Point was very basic, with tiny weatherboard rooms. However, it was run by a beautiful family who were extremely welcoming and cooked a delicious dal bhat that we enjoyed in the cosy woodfire-heated dining room.

Day 8: Dobato (3,480 m) To Ghurjung (2,050 m) – Including Mulde Peak For Sunrise

Mulde Peak Sunrise

Suggested Time: 45 – 60 minutes return
Our Time: 45 minutes return

If you’re looking for a quieter sunrise mission compared to Poon Hill, with even better views, then you won’t want to miss Mulde Peak.

Mulde Peak is a short 15 – 30-minute walk from Dobato Village. The trail ascends a rugged, rocky slope to a broad summit boasting panoramic views of Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, Machhapuchhre, and even Manaslu on really clear mornings.

We rose at 5 am, layered up in warm clothes and started walking at 5:30 am. We reached the summit in roughly 20 minutes, paying our fee of 100 NRP at the ticket office just below the peak.

The sky began to change colour as we wandered around the sprawling summit, searching for the best vantage point. Mulde Peak is well set up for tourists, with a tea and coffee stall, scattered seats, a viewing platform and a small Stupa. But the best feature is the double swing overlooking Annapurna South.

There was plenty of room to spread out and watch the sunrise in peace, as most people stuck to the viewing platform above the tea and coffee stall. We found our favourite place between the bench seat and the swing, where we had flawless views of both magnificent ranges.

Our luck continued from Poon Hill and we were blessed with a magical sunrise. The sun rose just to the right of Machhapuchhre, lighting up Annapurna South and the Dhaulagiri range perfectly.

Dobato To Chuile

Suggested Time: 2.5 – 3 hours
Our Time: 2 hrs 30 minutes

We set off from Dobato after returning to our lodge for breakfast and to pack up, still buzzing from the incredible sunrise we were gifted. The trail continued east toward the main route for the Annapurna Base Camp Track, immediately beginning to descend to the valley floor far below.

As we traversed along the rough and rocky trail, the enormous peak of Annapurna South dominated the horizon across the valley. Sadly, we lost sight of the magnificent mountain once we dropped over the other side of the range and arrived at the small village of Ishari, but it wouldn’t be for long!

Passing through the village, we continued to descend steeply through an open forest, passing by another abandoned teahouse before the trail split and we took the lesser tracked path that led straight to Chuile rather than going through Tatopani first.

From the moment we stepped onto the shortcut, it was very obvious that this track was rarely used. The path was almost completely hidden by a thick layer of forest debris, but luckily there were plenty of blue paint markers to lead the way.

We wouldn’t recommend taking this route unless you’re accustomed to very rough and steep trails. But if you do, you’re in for a magical forest adventure. The seriously steep and often unstable trail zigzagged through the dense, loamy forest filled with moss-covered boulders and fallen tree trunks.

Eventually, we emerged from the tangled forest into a grassy clearing that descended into Chuile, where we stopped for lunch.

Lunch Stop: Hotel Rainbow & Restaurant, Chuile

We had lunch at Hotel Rainbow, the first guesthouse we came across. It had a spacious lawn overlooking the snaking valley and a delicious dal bhat loaded with veggies. We stayed for a while, letting Dylan’s newly formed blisters breathe, before taking off again for our final hour to reach Ghurjung.

Chuile To Ghurjung 

Suggested Time: 1 – 1.5 hours
Our Time: 1 hour

The trail continued meandering downhill from Chuile, leading us to the river winding through the gaping valley. Now that we had returned to the main path, it was much easier again thanks to the steps and a very manicured trail.

Finally, we arrived at the Kimrong River and crossed over the first giant swing bridge of the journey. A steep ascent followed on the opposite bank, but thankfully, it was brief. We soon began passing through the first of Ghurjung’s farms and teahouses toward our home for the night.

Accommodation: Ghurjung Lodge & Restaurant

We stayed at Ghurjung Lodge, located at the edge of the village. The lodge had a lovely little courtyard and beautiful views over the valley from the dining room windows. A line of small brick rooms are found on the opposite side of the courtyard, with beds that can be pushed together to make a double. 

There was a communal shower, but it was only just warm and the room was full of long gangly spiders! If you’re afraid of spiders, I recommend getting your buddy to shower first and assess the situation!

With that said, aside from a few tiny spiders in the rooms (that most people wouldn’t care about), the lodge was very cosy with lovely staff and delicious meals!

Day 9: Ghurjung (2,050 m) To Lower Sinuwa (2,072 m)

Ghurjung To Chhomrong

Suggested Time: 1.5 – 2 hours
Our Time: 1 hr 30 minutes

Today was a short day, so we enjoyed a sleep-in and took advantage of the reliable wifi before setting off just before 9 am.

We continued walking east along a steep path that wound around the mountainside. Along the steep ascent, we passed through several small farm villages and teahouses which offered plenty of opportunities to rest.

It was quite obvious that we’d made it back to the popular trekking route as the path was much easier – though not without some steep rocky sections and loose soil – and we passed by more and more fellow travellers.

As we rounded the mountain’s spur, the majestic Annapurna range came into sight once more. While appreciating this fresh perspective, we began descending through more quaint farming villages – only to ascend yet again to reach our lunch spot at the top of Chhomrong.

Lunch Stop: Hotel Alpine & Restaurant, Chhomrong

We stopped for lunch at Hotel Alpine & Restaurant, which sat atop the hill overlooking the majestic snow-capped mountains. The restaurant had a large courtyard where we sat and enjoyed a very long lunch while soaking up the sun and the view.

For something different, I ordered the veg, egg and cheese momos – which sound weird but we’re really tasty!

Chhomrong To Lower Sinuwa

Suggested Time: 1.5 – 2 hours
Our Time: 1 hr 20 minutes

After allowing our satisfied bellies time to settle, we started the long descent down to the valley floor. The path took us through the bustling central area of Chhomrong, which was buzzing with activity.

You can buy anything you need in Chhomrong, including espresso coffee and bakery food! It was the biggest village we had encountered on our Annapurna Base Camp Trek, with Ghorepani coming in a close second.

As we passed through Chhomrong, we stopped at the tourist checkpoint for our guide to show our documents and at a trekkers shop to grab some snacks and toilet paper. The trekkers shop we visited is apparently the cheapest place to buy supplies, they get considerably more expensive as you gain altitude.

We finally left Chhomrong behind, descending stone steps down to the bouldered river below. After crossing the Chhomrong River via another giant swing bridge, we began climbing out of the valley once again.

The trail was steep and arduous, but we appreciated the shade from tall trees and the added ease from the steps. After roughly 45 minutes, we reached Lower Sinuwa, passing by a collection of farmhouses before arriving at our teahouse for the night.

Accommodation: Hotel Himal & Restaurant 

We stayed at the first lodge of the three or four in Sinuwa Lower, called Hotel Himal. It was unfortunately quite tired, with the rooms all needing some serious love. They were also doing construction on the outside patio so we couldn’t sit out there and enjoy the view down the valley.

With that said, the food was nice and it sufficed for a night. However, we decided to stay somewhere else when we returned a few days later.

Note: If you’re up for a little more walking, we suggest staying at Sinuwa, which offers better views of the Annapurna range and seemed a little more lively.

Day 10: Lower Sinuwa (2,072 m) To Deurali (3,170 m)

Lower Sinuwa To Dovan

Suggested Time: 3.5 – 4.5 hours
Our Time: 2 hrs 45 minutes

In anticipation for a big day – and to avoid the notorious bad afternoon weather – we woke early and left Lower Sinuwa by 7:30 am.

Immediately, we began climbing steeply for roughly 30 – 45 minutes – predominantly up stone steps. We gained some respite from the steep climb after passing through Upper Sinuwa, which offered breathtaking views of Machhapuchhre and Annapurna 3. From there, we left the quaint villages behind for a while and entered the dense forest.

Note: Watch out for Langur Monkeys in this forest! We witnessed a group of these rowdy monkeys fighting in the trees above the trail and they were huge – much bigger than the ones that congregate around Kathmandu. Sadly, we couldn’t get a good photo of them but it was entertaining to watch them fly through the forest.

The trail continued through the moss-covered forest for some time, predominantly ascending with a few undulating sections to catch your breath. Eventually, the forest opened up to reveal the monstrous mountains once more and soon after, we arrived at a viewpoint and a toilet block, which marked the start of the descent to Bamboo.

We basically descended all the way to the wild river below, which felt a little disheartening as we knew just how much elevation we needed to gain overall! But it was relatively short and before we knew it a short ascent led us to Bamboo. 

The small village of Bamboo was nice, but the sewage smelt pretty bad at the start of town and there is no view. We would recommend staying in Upper Sinuwa over Bamboo – or Dovan if you want to cover more distance.

After passing through Bamboo, we continued to traverse through the forest. The enchanting forest grew denser, presenting more challenges with roots and rocks cluttering the damp trail.

Eventually, we arrived at Dovan which had a lovely vibe and a beautiful view up the valley to Machhapuchhre and Annapurna 3. We would recommend stopping here if it’s close to lunchtime, otherwise continue on to Himalaya – about 1.5 – 2 hrs away.

Dovan To Himalaya

Suggested Time: 1.5 – 2 hours
Our Time: 1 hr 20 minutes

We arrived too early to have lunch at Dovan, and we had heard rumours of espresso coffee in Himalaya, so we continued on. Just 15 minutes past Dovan, we passed through the tiny village of Upper Dovan. This village didn’t have a very exciting vibe and only one lodge, so we don’t recommend stopping here for lunch.

The gradient increased once again after leaving Upper Dovan and the trail crossed several creeks via rickety wooden bridges. After 30 minutes of ascending from Upper Dovan, we reached a sprawling waterfall and a religious shrine.

We stopped at the pleasant waterfall to explore the busy viewpoint and rest for a moment before continuing the steep climb to Himalaya. Some rough root sections kept our minds occupied and thankfully off our grumbling tummies.

Then finally, we reached a short traverse that led us to the bustling village of Himalaya.

It took us a total of 4 hours and 15 minutes to reach Himalaya from Lower Sinuwa, but the wait for lunch was worth it. We immediately fell in love with this little village, which boasted a large sunny courtyard overlooking the formidable mountains. But I think we were even more excited about the espresso coffee than the view!

Lunch Stop: Himalaya Hotel & Restaurant, Himalaya

We were told to expect a delicious coffee at Himalaya and it didn’t disappoint. While not the best we’ve ever had, it was impressive for a small village near Annapurna Base Camp. With that said, be ready for a sweet coffee thanks to the powdered milk.

We tried a cappuccino from both restaurants and they were equally as good! We also deviated from our dal bhat to try the much talked about pizza, which wasn’t anything amazing but it filled our craving for bread and cheese!

Himalaya To Deurali

Suggested Time: 1 – 1.5 hours
Our Time: 1 hour

Once our bellies were overfilled with coffee and pizza, we continued our journey to Deurali.

The trail shot straight up from Himalaya, with a mixture of rough stone steps and rugged tree roots. It was surprisingly challenging, which we loved but it might be a shock for some. With that said, if you ascend slowly then you’ll have no trouble navigating the rough trail.

As we kept climbing, vistas of the rugged mountains at the valley’s head continuously unravelled to fill the horizon. No photo can capture the true beauty of this landscape, and we were in a constant state of awe as we followed the undulating trail alongside the raging river.

Finally, after countless photo stops, we crossed a dirty glacier and climbed the few final steps to Deurali. The little village of guesthouses sits beside the river, beneath enormous jagged peaks that soar high above.

Accommodation: New Panorama Guest House & Restaurant, Deurali

We stayed at the first lodge as you walk into Deurali, which had a cosy dining hall and a large courtyard. The rooms were clean and presentable and we even got a proper double bed!

We were surprised to find that the price for hot showers, wifi and charging wasn’t considerably more expensive at this high altitude. But due to the crowds that funnel into Deurali, we recommend charging your electronics as soon as you get in as the power board becomes full quickly.

Day 11: Deurali (3,170 m) To Annapurna Base Camp (4,120 m)

Deurali To Machhapuchhre Base Camp

Suggested Time: 2 – 3 hours
Our Time: 2 hours

Our day began early for our ascent to Annapurna Base Camp, which can take anywhere from 4 – 8 hours depending on how the altitude affects you.

We set off from Deurali at 7:45 am, sliding into the endless line of trekkers starting the day’s walk. Almost immediately, we were walking through slippery mud courtesy of the rain that poured down the day before.

The trail was quite rough, forcing us to weave through rocks and muddy roots, crossing the turbulent milky river twice via ramshackle metal bridges. The challenging trail helped set an order for the trekkers and we gained some distance from the crowds within an hour.

Although we continuously ascended throughout the entire walk up to Machhapuchhre Base Camp, there were only a couple of small steep sections. The gentle gradient made us feel as if we were flying along, even though we were actually walking quite slowly due to the altitude!

Another reason for our slow pace was the fact that every turn we took had our jaws dropping to the ground. Everywhere we turned, we were gifted with mind-blowing views of Machhapuchhre and the surrounding jagged peaks – all framed by the raging river snaking through the foreground.

Eventually, after carefully passing through an avalanche risk area, we wound up the slope to Machhapuchhre Base Camp. We made very good time and arrived after 2 hours, so we stopped at MBC for a cup of tea and to soak in the views for a little while before continuing on to Annapurna Base Camp.

Machhapuchhre Base Camp To Annapurna Base Camp

Suggested Time: 2 – 4 hours
Our Time: 2 hours

We encountered snow immediately after leaving MBC. Fortunately, due to the heavy traffic along the trail, we didn’t feel we needed microspikes and were able to traverse the slushy snow effortlessly.

The trail veered away from the river, winding through the valley to the west. As we trudged along, the magnificent peaks of Annapurna Fang and Annapurna South played hide and seek with the billowing clouds.

We were now above 3,700 m and the going got really slow. Thanks to our previous experience at Khayer Lake, we didn’t get any altitude symptoms, but we still felt as if we were walking at sloth pace. We certainly weren’t complaining though as it gave us an excuse to stop continuously and gawk at the landscape surrounding us.

Roughly halfway between MBC and ABC, we got our first glimpse of the base camp village, which spurred us forward in excitement. However, we ended up watching Annapurna Base Camp grow ever-so-slowly in the distance for over an hour before we actually made it! 

But finally, we did and we stopped to snap the iconic shot at the Annapurna Base Camp sign before making a beeline to our teahouse for a much-needed dal bhat! Our timing couldn’t have been better as it began to snow as soon as we sat down for lunch.

We thought we would have to wait until the following morning to finally get our first glimpse of Annapurna 1. But to our delight, the skies cleared just enough in the afternoon and we rushed outside to witness the entire range encompassing us.

There are seriously no words to describe the monstrosity of these mountains. We most certainly felt like tiny little ants as we craned our necks to take in the sight of the Annapurna Range around us. We spent the entire afternoon running around to various viewpoints, marvelling at the enormous glacier beneath us that continuously groaned and cracked. 

Accommodation: Hotel Paradise, Annapurna Base Camp

Our guide, Ram, chose Hotel Paradise for our stay at Annapurna Base Camp. The rooms were very clean and presentable, with very thick blankets – although we still had to use our sleeping bags to stay warm.

A small courtyard offers spectacular views of Machhapuchhre and we could see Annapurna 1 from our bedroom window and the dining hall. As to be expected, the food was slightly more expensive. But it was all very delicious and the portions were huge, which we were stoked about!

Day 12: Annapurna Base Camp (4,120 m) To Lower Sinuwa (2,072 m)

Annapurna Base Camp To Himalaya

Suggested Time: 3 – 5 hours
Our Time: 3 hours

We woke up at the crack of dawn and were welcomed with clear skies twinkling with stars, the milky way spilling out above Machhapuchhre. As the sun began to rise, we wandered a little way along the ridge to avoid the crowds gathering at the prayer flags.

The sun climbed its way over Machhapuchhre, gently illuminating the monstrous snowy peaks of Annapurna 1 and Annapurna South in a soft golden light. We stood in awe for a long time, until our fingers and toes were frozen solid.

We ran back inside to defrost with a hot coffee and porridge before beginning the long and arduous descent all the way back down to Lower Sinuwa!

We got away early to avoid the slush that would occur when the snow started to melt and made it back down to Machhapuchhre within an hour – cutting off half the time from the ascent.

Again, we felt comfortable on the slippery snowy trail without microspikes. However, if you have limited experience hiking in the snow, then you may want to pack a set of microspikes just in case.

We chose not to stop at MBC and continued on to Himalaya. The trail was even muddier than the previous day, but we made good time as we were ahead of the crowds and arrived at Himalaya for an early lunch and another delicious cappuccino!

Lunch Stop: Himalaya Cafe, Himalaya

This time, we decided to dine at the bottom restaurant after trying the top one last time. We ordered the pizza again, and it was nearly the same. So, it doesn’t make a difference which restaurant you pick – they’re equally great!

Himalaya To Lower Sinuwa

Suggested Time: 4 – 5 hours
Our Time: 4 hours

After a lazy lunch, we reluctantly continued the grinding descent. This time, the intermittent ascents were welcomed, preventing our knees from completely hating us.

There’s no sugarcoating it, this was a REALLY long day, with almost 2,500 m of descent! 

If you’re not restricted with time, we recommend stopping in Dovan or even Sinuwa to break up the descent a little more.

The only thing that kept us going at a relatively fast pace was the inevitable storm that would roll through the valley in the afternoon. This sadly stopped us from having longer breaks, but it turned out to be a wise decision since the storm arrived just as we got to our accommodation!

Accommodation: Kalapana Guesthouse, Lower Sinuwa (Binuwa)

This time, we stayed at a newer guesthouse just a little further down from the main area of Lower Sinuwa. We were excited to have an ensuite at the Kalapana Guesthouse, even though the shower didn’t work and we had to use the communal one.

Kalapana Guesthouse was very cosy and clean, and the staff were lovely. The food was delicious with generous portions. We finally tried the Snickers roll that we had been eyeing on the menu for a while, and we loved it. However, we made the mistake of adding custard, which was mixed with water instead of milk. The taste and consistency were not what we expected, and it’s an experience we certainly won’t repeat!